Phnom Chisor: Ascending The Mountain of the Sun Godfeatured

I love Angkor Wat, but it’s such a tourist trap. People are packed together like sardines in a can, where breathing fresh air is a luxury. Sometimes, I want to get off the beaten track, to feel more like an ancient explorer, not a tourist. Lucky for me, 50km from Phnom Penh lays a hidden gem from Khmer history, older than Angkor Wat, and relatively unknown to tourists; Phnom Chisor, also known as Sri Suryaparvata or Suyagiri (Mountain of the Sun God) in the Ankorian period.

Ascending 412 steps that lead towards Phnom Chisor in sweltering late afternoon heat is a mission, but the serene atmosphere of the ruin and the rare view of the surrounding countryside from the mountaintop make the effort well worth it. Standing on the edge of the steep cliff , you can see other remains of Phnom Chisor surrounded by fields and fields of rice paddy.

The main temple that stands on the eastern side of the hilltop is constructed of laterite, a reddish clayey material, and brick with carved sandstone lintels.

Like most Angkorian temple built under King Suryavarman I, during a period when Angkorian Empire was powerful and on the rise, this temple is Hindu. Dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu, scenes depicting Shiva, Brahma, and Vishnu are visibly carved on some of the sandstone lintels and pediments, many still in great condition. Taken by this ruin, I spent much more time up here than planned, enjoying the views and studying every carving of the temple.

Once I was done playing an archaeologist, it only took a few steps to reach an interesting modern temple. Prasat Preah Ko Preah Keo, or the Sacred Ox and Sacred Gem temple, is dedicated to two brothers of legend, one an ox and the other a man, believed by the locals to bring peace and prosperity to the area.

 

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